The open-air amphitheater on Oaxaca’s ceremonial hill, Cerro del Fortín, overlooking the mountains and valleys that make up this beautiful city, is filled with more than 15,000 people today. It’s 5 pm on July 27th, the last showing of the year for the Guelguetza, one of the largest folkloric festivals in the Americas. Spectators come from all over the world to view this magical event. Women and men in glittering silk, gold, and lace costumes adorned with red sashes, hair ribbons, golden straw hats and elaborate jewelry present their offering for the fourth time this week; a dance to the gods and to the crowd. They come from all seven regions of this richly cultured state, and each dance is introduced with a shout out in both Spanish and the native languages of the villages about what it means to be from the Central Valley, Sierra Juarez, the Cañada, Tuxtepec, Mixteca, the Isthmus of Tehuantepec and even as far as the Coastal Regions. The shout outs are followed by the ancient folkloric dances of the people, most of which are displays of flirting and pursuits, as the woman sways her colorful skirt around the man, who takes off his hat, and dances to catch up to her.
The amphitheatre at Cerro del Fortín filled with merriment, music and colors
The first three performances move in the fading evening sun with grace. The women of San Jerónimo Tecoatl from the Cañada region waltz across the stage as their black braids swing, and the young group of men and women in luminous white dress from San Melchor Betaza of the Northern Sierras gallop to the brass band, as the crowd claps in the air. In Zapotec, Guelaguetza means “reciprocal exchange of gifts,” and this defines each performance. The performers thank the audience after each dance by dipping into their palm-thatched baskets and hurling breads, tortillas and flowers to the eager crowd.
The story of the Guelaguetza resembles many of the Mesoamerican world; a syncretism of indigenous beliefs and traditions with Catholic concepts of worship. Before the Spanish conquest, the Aztecs dominated the valley of Oaxaca. They danced ritually to ensure rain and abundant harvests, lending particular credence to Centéotl, the Goddess of Corn. However, as the history of conquest and colonization show us, traditions were changed forever. After the arrival of the Spanish in the 16th century, and in their desire to convert the indigenous population to Christianity, the conquistadors prohibited the worship of Centéotl and destroyed the temple where such worship took place. Nevertheless, this did little to hamper the fervor of the native people, who found similarities between their ancient gods and some of the symbols of the Catholic religion. On top of the ancient Aztec “Teocalli” temple and at the foot of the hill of El Fortín, the Carmen Alto temple was constructed.
For years, various indigenous groups worshipped Centéotl in secret, or held small celebrations in her honor. When Oaxaca celebrated 400 years of existence, in 1932, the “Homage to the Races” took place, where all indigenous groups from Oaxaca came together to dance and show off their beautiful local costumes. The celebration was such a success that it became an annual event.
Today, many of these ceremonies show signs of Catholic influence. For instance, the town of Tlacolula of Matamoros does not have folkloric dances but a procession in honor of the Virgin. Back at the amphitheatre an exciting atmosphere encompasses the crowd, with vendors trying to sell their drinks, snacks and souvenirs amid the sweet sounds of the folkloric music, and spectators can hardly wait for the next show. The women of Villa Hidalgo Yalalag from the Northern Sierra are dressed in long colorful huipiles with unique black head wraps. They are the fourth of fifteen performers this evening, and as they commence their dance, the rain begins to dance on our heads. The young parents next to me, who are from Oaxaca, attend two Guelaguetza showings each year. They are shielding their eight-month old baby with a plastic rain slicker. “We wouldn’t miss this for the world, our culture is important to us,” says Gemina. I offer to cover her and her baby with my umbrella, and, in return, she offers me a little of her food. The spirit of sharing of the Guelaguetza is conveyed through our hands.
The rain lets up a little as the communities of San Pablo Macuiltianguis from the Northern Sierra perform one of the most memorable dances of the night. In the Torito Serrano, young boys and girls struggle in a friendly war of bull and matador. The bulls, (the young women) fight to butt the matador (the young men) onto the ground and off the stage. The crowd roars in laughter as the matador slips and falls on the wet stage, but persistently pursues his bull time and again.
While dancers from Miahuatlán de Porfirio from the Sierra Sur (southern sierra) approach the stage in a mock display of flirtatious advance, a slow tune is transformed into the quicker strumming sounds of the violin. The women of the Papaloapan region of Tuxtepec throw whole pineapples into the audience, driving the fans wild as they dodge the heavy fruit, yet inch closer to catch the offering.
The community of San Melchor Betaza demonstrating their traditional dances in the Guelaguetza
Yet there is more sharing this week beyond what is happening here atop the hill. Both tourists and locals alike can visit various towns around the state of Oaxaca, which host their own dance festivals. The city itself is illuminated with parades, walking bands, giant paper mache puppets, Oaxaca’s world class food, artisanal products and even a mescal festival. People walk the streets from sun up to sun down, often without taking off their traditional Guelaguetza straw hats decorated with a 2009 sash around the rim. An event that cannot be missed is the Centéotl goddess competition, which takes place in the garden called “El Pañuelito” (“the little handkerchief”). The winner is the woman who shows the most knowledge about local traditions and is chosen to represent the indigenous people at the opening ceremony of the Guelaguetza alongside the governor. The Guelaguetza has certainly transformed itself into an important tourist attraction, bringing exposure to the city and a boost to its economy.
